Interior and Exterior Paint Masking Techniques
The only purpose of masking and covering an object is to protect it from paint splatters or contact with chemicals.
Many items can and should be removed before the painting begins. These include lights,
switch plates and outlet covers. Remove as many items as possible from the work area before beginning any painting project.
Unfortunately, some items can't be removed and must be covered.
Drop cloths are one component used for general covering of the floors, but you might want to mask wall areas or protect areas from over spray.
Although covering tightly is always important when spray painting, you won’t always have to cover items with such
precision. The techniques for covering up are the same for both interior and exterior painting.
A few simple items are needed to protect almost any item or surface while painting.
Drop Cloths - This is the only protection you will have for
your floors or side walks. Cleaning paint drips out of carpet or concrete will convince you that it is worth spending some money
on good rubber backed drop cloths.
Tape - You have a wide range of choices when it comes to masking tape.
Regular painter's tape, aka crepe tape, is the
standard for attaching plastic or paper to almost any surface. Available in widths from ¾ of an inch up to 2 inches, this type of masking tape
has very high adhesion and could be difficult to remove after a few hours or when exposed to the heat of sunlight.
Safe release tape, blue tape, is an excellent choice if the tape will be left in place for more than a day. Plus, safe release
tape will not remove most existing finishes. Typically rated by how many days it can remain attached.
Solvent tape, often the color green, is specifically designed to deal with the hot solvents found in lacquer or industrial enamel.
Solvent resistant tape can have a high adhesion and should only be used if you plan on applying a hot solvent based finish.
Masking Paper and Plastic Film - This is the foundation of a good paint masking system, absolutely better than newspaper
and regular plastic film.
Newspaper disintegrates when wet and regular plastic is difficult to attach. Both the specialized paper and the plastic film
are easily dispensed using a hand held masking machine
that automatically attaches the tape and cuts it to any desired length.
The paper is available in various widths from 6 to 12 inches and resistant to paints and solvents. Two types are available, regular
craft style and green, solvent resistant paper.
Most painters use the brown craft style since it’s inexpensive and easy to find. The more expensive green paper is used for high
solvent finishes like lacquer.
Plastic masking film is far superior to using plain lightweight plastic in every way. This plastic is resistant to solvents and
flaking plus it's perfectly sized for the most popular window and door sizes, available in many lengths from 24 inches to 99 inches.
Now you have all the masking materials ready;
What do you do with it?
If you don't want paint on it, you must protect it. For interiors this includes windows, doors, base, trim, cabinets, floors any other items not removed.
Exterior paint masking includes windows, doors, trim, brick, deck floor and handrail plus any other item you will not be painting.
Interior Paint Masking
Two choices are available for windows, doors, and base or trim.
Using tape to protect the edges from splatters and splotches caused from rolling or brushing. Use 1½ inch crepe
or blue tape pressed firmly against the trim, apply slight pressure with your putty knife to create a good seal and reduce seeping.
To help with the cut-in, the tape can wrap around the entire door or window frame butting up to the wall. This isn't necessary
if you have a steady hand while brushing.
Carpet can also be protected with tape. This will make painting baseboards easier and faster. Use wide, 2 inch, painter's tape.
The type doesn’t matter but blue painters tape is a little easier to work with.
Begin applying the tape by wrapping a little, ¼ inch, onto the baseboard at the carpet. Then force the tape under the base edge with your fingers. This small amount of tape
under the baseboard will hold back the carpet and protect it while brushing. Once you get the hang of it, it is very easy and
fast.
Use a strip of paper can cover the tops of the windows and doors for additional protection. This minimal covering is usually
enough to protect windows and doors from paint splatter while
painting walls, but a little more masking is desirable when
painting ceilings especially acoustic ceilings.
Using a good roller cover and quality paint will reduce splatters.
Using paper and plastic to fully protect these areas. This is only necessary if you will be spraying. The plastic
film is preferred as it is much faster.
While using the appropriate length of plastic film, attach to the top of the door or window frame using the film dispenser.
Pull down on the plastic and tack the two corners using small pieces of tape. Now tape the edges tight to the wall, and wrap
the tape over the plastic to seal. Double check the edges and apply more tape wear needed.
These techniques can also be used to protect cabinets. For large areas or walls use regular clear painter's plastic and wide tape.
Draping walls is best done with 2-inch tape. Attach the tape horizontally along the wall, at the ceiling, leaving the tape’s width
free to fasten to the plastic. Hold the plastic under the tape and press firmly to adhere.
Protecting ceilings in order to spray walls is possible although some what difficult. You have two choices.
Adhere wide masking tape first along the ceiling then attach 12-inch paper from a masking machine to this tape. The paper will
have to be taped every foot to the ceiling.
Often paper alone isn’t enough to stop overspray and the need for excessive touch-up. For added protection use 2 foot plastic
masking film in the same way as the paper. It isn’t necessary to attach wide tape first, but this will make using paper or plastic
film easier.
Protecting ceilings in this manner is for smooth or textured surfaces, but will not work on acoustic ceilings.
Exterior Paint Masking
Many interior paint masking techniques can be applied to all exterior projects. The real difference is during
exterior spray painting.
Everything not being sprayed must be fully covered. Overspray is imposable to control, especially in windy conditions.
Thoroughly covering all items will save many hours of cleaning or prevent damage to unpainted surfaces.
Windows and doors need to be fully protected whether you are spraying or rolling the exterior paint. I use plastic masking
film and a dispenser. This drastically speeds up the process and produces better results. Use the appropriate length plastic and
regular, white, painter’s tape for the best adhesion.
Wood decks and fences also require covering or you will be forced to clean then sand and refinish. Drop cloths are your
first defense.
Heavy rubber backed drop cloths are the best and should be used. Another use is protecting plants and shrubs.
For decks, and any horizontal surface, lay the drops a few inches away from the house and then use a hand-masking machine with
paper to cover the edge next to the house. Attach the paper to the drop cloth with tape.
With the paper over the drop cloth it is impossible for over spray from an airless paint sprayer to reach the deck.
Vertical surfaces, such as brick, will be the most difficult to cover up. Draping with plastic masking film or regular
lightweight plastic will work only if wide tape is used.
The tape won't stick to masonry very well. If possible, attach the tape to a painted surface for better results and plan on brushing
these areas after spraying.
Even rolling an exterior wall or soffit will produce
drips and splatters. Masking all non-removable items will save you many hours of frustration.
Accessories
Don't forget about water valves, phone and communication boxes, electrical meters and lights. Everything that couldn't be
removed must be protected from overspray and splatters.
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