How To Stain Your Wood Deck - The Right Way

Properly finishing your wood deck with stain doesn't just make the structure more beautiful; it also provides protection against the elements and helps your deck last longer. Both new and existing decks need to be clean and in good condition before you can stain; these articles on power washing, refinishing, and sanding will get you started.

Wood stains are very forgiving finishes and can be applied using a number of different tools, depending on the type of stain and the way the deck is constructed. The most common method is to apply the stain using a roller, brush, or lambswool pad. For faster application, use a sprayer; just be prepared to spend significant time masking the surrounding area.

Deck Staining Sequence

The most efficient deck staining sequence will allow you to color the entire structure without being painted into a corner or having to revisit areas. In general, this means starting at the house wall and working towards the stairs. Working from top to bottom prevents spatters and drips from ruining a previously finished surface. In general, we at Crowder Painting use the following sequence when finishing decks:

Lattice
Handrails and pickets
Benches and planters
Floor (make sure you work towards the stairs, so that you don't have to walk over freshly stained wood to leave the deck!)
Stairs
Any exposed framing

Maintenance

A properly maintained deck will look attractive for years or even decades. Applying a fresh coat of stain every one to two years will ensure lush color and protection from wind, sun, and precipitation. The first coat acts as a sealer; subsequent layers of stain sit on top, producing a more even finish and additional protection.

Do's and Don'ts of Deck Staining

Deck Stain Application Do's

DO wait until temperatures are between 50° and 90° degree Fahrenheit, 10° - 35° degrees Celsius to stain. Cold temperatures can slow drying and create a sticky finish. The only way this can be corrected is to remove it and start over. In hot weather, stain may not penetrate the wood completely; color and protective properties will suffer. Both extremes can cause unattractive lap marks to form.
DO apply a sample. Just as it's a good idea to test a sample of paint before doing the whole wall, you should test out a sample of your stain before covering the entire deck. The best way to do this is to apply the stain to a scrap of wood left over from building the deck. If none is available, purchase a small piece of the same type of lumber, or simply test the stain in a small, hidden area.
DO saturate all end grains. The end of the board, where the wood has been cut, will absorb much more stain that other areas. Make sure to saturate this area completely, because these areas are especially vulnerable to splitting and other damage.
DO apply liberal coats. Coats that are too thin will sit on top of the wood instead of penetrating effectively.
DO work with the grain. This encourages more even color and better penetration.
DO maintain a wet edge. This will help you avoid lap marks and ensure more even color.

Deck Stain Application Don'ts

DON'T apply stain to wet, dewy, or frosty surfaces. Even stains supposedly designed to be applied to damp or wet surfaces perform better if the deck is allowed to dry for 24-48 hours before application.
DON'T apply in damp weather or if stormy weather is threatening.
DON'T leave pools or puddles of stain. They'll appear darker than the surrounding area. Back brush or wipe the stain off with a rag, instead.
DON'T apply in direct sunlight or when the surface is hot to the touch. Wait till the deck is in the shade. A hot surface can dry before the stain has a chance to fully penetrate, creating an easily damaged surface. Lap marks may also become apparent because it will be harder to maintain a wet edge. It can also cause harmful compounds called VOCs to off-gas faster than normal, causing headaches, lightheadedness, and dizziness; I've actually seen a visible fog of these appear when working with oil-based products. Scary!