Correctly Apply a Wood Deck Stain for Lasting Results

A wood deck stain can be applied with a brush or pad, roller or a sprayer depending on the type of stain you choose and the construction of the deck.

The most practical way to apply stains to an existing wood deck is with a brush or pad. While new deck construction will permit different tactics.

The application of wood deck stain is easy when you know the procedures. The deck construction will determine where to start and how to proceed.

Consider staining a wood deck in small sections working toward the stairs or a safe way off the deck. Typically start at the house wall, working from one end to the other and back again.

The most common method is to use a brush, but a combination of methods can be used. I will describe the three main ways to apply a wood deck stain to a new deck or for refinishing an existing deck. Use a method you are comfortable with and are most appropriate for your skill level.

Applying a Wood Deck Stain

Wood deck stains are very forgiving finishes that can be applied with almost any painting tool. This includes an airless sprayer, garden sprayer, roller, brush, mitt or even a mop. The most popular methods are brushing, using a lamb's wool pad and spraying.

Brushing Wood Deck Stain

Staining a wood deck with a brush is the most popular method, but you need to know a couple of important rules.

• Never stop staining in the middle, take a break and start staining again. This will leave lap marks. Always start and finish in one session.
• Apply the stain too 2—4 boards at a time. The actual number depends on the stain and weather. Work with a number that you can keep wet edge and is comfortable for you.

Apply the wood deck stain 6 inches in front of a previously finished area and brush back, toward the already stained area. This will blend one area into another as you go. Use liberal amounts and work quickly.

The size of the brush can affect how fast the staining gets done and how well the deck will look. Use a 4 inch straight bristle brush on the floor and most handrails. A smaller brush can be used for hard to reach areas. Always use a natural bristle brush for oil base products and a nylon brush for water-based stains.

Using a Roller or Lamb's Wool Pad

Staining a wood deck floor with a roller or pad will save a lot of time, but some brushing is still necessary. A roller will leave small concentrations of stain and a pad could leave heavy lines of stain. Back brushing is the only method that will produce a even color and finish.

Back brushing will be necessary when rolling. Back brushing is going over an area with a brush while the stain is wet. This brushing will even out the color and remove heavy deposits if stain. A high quality lamb's wool pad, if used properly, will not need back brushing.

Both methods require a similar procedure. First brush along the house and the last board at the edge of the deck. Other areas will need to be cut-in as you are applying the stain. Apply the stain 3—4 inches in from the walls and railings so you can overlap those areas when rolling or using a pad.

Wipe up any drips or runs as you notice them. Plus, do not apply the wood deck stain to thick. This will produce puddles of stain that can peel or take a very long time to dry. Use a brush to spread around pooled stain and catch any drips or runs.

Roll 2—3 boards at a time, applying a liberal coat. Be careful not to roll to fast as the stain can splatter onto other finished surfaces. Immediately follow with a brush to even out the color and spread any heavy areas around. A small trim roller can be used on the railings, following the same procedure.

A lamb's wool pad is available with an attached handle for hand application or attaches to a threaded pole, roller pole works great, with a size ranging from 6 inches to 18 inches. A large dip pan is needed in order to load the lamb's wool pad with stain.

A pad is pulled, or dragged, parallel with the surface. This method can be very fast and will apply an even coat of wood deck stain.

As with rolling, concentrate on 2—3 boards at a time. This depends on the size of the pad. Cut-in the edges first around the deck, then begin applying the stain by dragging the pad down the floor. A brush should be used for the handrail system and accessories, such as planters and benches.

Spraying Wood Deck Stain

Another method is using a sprayer. Spraying the deck finish can go very fast when compared to other methods. What might have taken all day could be done in just a couple of hours. Unfortunately, there are limitations and some important considerations.

Two types can be used, an airless sprayer or garden type sprayer. The pressure needed for spraying most wood deck stains is very low.

The main problem with spraying is over spray. You need to carefully mask the house wall(s) and cover any landscaping with plastic. Many wood deck stains are very thin and can turn into a fog when sprayed. This is especially true when using an airless sprayer and too much pressure.

Using an airless sprayer for staining a wood deck.

• First consideration is the tip size. Small tips will work better with most finishes. Use a 411 spray tip on the floor and any large solid areas and a 211 on handrails, pickets and lattice. The 411 tip has a fan width of 8 inches and the 211 tip has a fan width of 4 inches one foot from the surface.
• Turn down the pressure. Low pressure has two benefits, reduced over spray and better control. Reduce the pressure so you have a good spray pattern without fingers, heavy areas at the edge of the fan. Try 800—1000 psi. at the start. Then reduce the pressure until you are comfortable with the spray pattern. Reduced pressure will reduce the over spray and allow you to spray closer to the surface.
• Do not spray on windy days. Over spray can travel considerable distances.
• Apply a liberal coat and back brush. Back brushing will reduce pooling of the stain and help create a more even appearance. You can use a large paint pad attached to a roller pole on the floor boards.
• Complete the deck in sections. Example would be, 3—4 boards at a time and work in a logical order.
• Do not stop in the middle of a large area. This will produce lap marks.

The same basic principals need to be used with a garden type sprayer. Follow all the manufactures recommendations.

Deck Staining Sequence

Consider the deck as separate surfaces or areas needing to be stained in a logical sequence. Start from the top and work down with the floor being stained last.

Staining the floor depends on where the stairs are. The stairs are the "jump off point". The floor needs to be finished towards the stairs. This way you won't have to walk over the freshly stained wood to leave the deck.

Don't paint yourself into corner!

A good order is lattice used for privacy, then the handrails and pickets, next any benches and planters then finish with the floor.

Stairs need to be done last and finally any exposed framing. This order of events will allow any drips or overspray to be covered during the next phase.

Number of Coats

I have found that one properly applied coat of wood deck stain is better than two coats with most products. Many stains are designed for single coat application, if applied heavy and properly back brushed.

This method allows for recoating in 1—2 years with the least amount of preparation. Plus, the weathered first coat acts as a sealer. Allowing the new coat to sit on top and produce a more even finish.

The number of recommended coats also depends on the type of product and condition of the deck. Very thin and almost clear stains might need two coats in order to look right. Always follow the manufactures recommendations.

General Do's and Don'ts

Every manufacture has all-purpose recommendations and they are generally universal. Try to follow these as best as you can.

Deck Stain Application Do's

• Apply the wood deck stain when temperatures are between 50° and 90° degree Fahrenheit, 10°—35° degrees Celsius. This applies to the air and surface temperature. The temperature affects how the wood deck stain penetrates and dries. If too cold the stain will not dry completely or be damaged. If too hot the stain will not penetrate. Both extremes can cause lap or brush marks and effect the final look.
• Check the color. It is always a good idea to apply some deck stain to a scrap piece of wood prior to opening all the cans. Apply the sample to a piece of wood used in the deck. If you don't have access to any wood left over after the deck construction, purchase a piece that matches as close as possible.
• Saturate all end grains. This is the end where the wood has been cut. The end grains will take up a lot of stain as compared to the other surfaces.
• Apply liberal coats. The stain needs to penetrate. If to thin very little penetration can take place.
• Apply in the direction of the grain. This will encourage better penetration and appearance.
• Maintain a wet edge. This produces an even color appearance.

Deck Stain Application Don'ts

• Don't apply when dew or frost is present.
• Never apply in wet weather or if stormy weather is threatening.
• Don't leave pools or puddles of finish. Always back brush in order to provide an even coat.
• If possible don't apply in direct sunlight. This will affect penetration of the stain and the person applying the stain.
• Don't apply when the surface is hot to the touch. Hot temperatures go along with direct sunlight. Many oil base products can become dangerous in excessive heat, giving off VOC's. VOC stands for Volatile Organic Compounds, pay attention to the volatile part. I have seen a "fog" of these compounds develop after applying some products on a hot deck, very scary.

Other than excessive heat, water and wet wood will seriously shorten the life of most wood deck stains. Some manufactures claim to produce products that are suited for staining wet wood. I have not tested this claim.

Follow the manufactures recommendations for the best results. If the deck is wet, allow to dry for 24—48 hours before staining.

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