Elastomeric Paint – Possibly The Best Exterior Paint

Possibly the best exterior finish is elastomeric paint. This coating is so durable it can out perform even the best 100% exterior acrylic paint by 2 to 1. Elastomeric paint forms a durable, tough film that provides a waterproof coating to almost any structure. This paint is resistant to sunlight, heat, cold and wind driven rain.

Plus, it can be applied to all masonry surfaces, particularly stucco and concrete block. But is equally suitable for wood and T-111 siding, check your particular manufacture for compatibility with wood.

You can eliminate cracking in masonry and many types of wood with this very thick coating. Elastomeric coatings have tremendous elongation characteristics, it will bridge and repair non-structural hairline cracks.

This is especially useful with stucco that has developed numerous cracks. But wood surfaces, such as T-111 siding, can gain great benefits from its use. T-111 siding develops a large number of cracks over time. These imperfections must be completely filled with primer and paint or water will penetrate beneath the finish and cause peeling.

Many homeowners, and painters alike, try multiple coats of paint to fill these cracks. This doesn’t last very long. With peeling starting in just 2-3 years with the paint degenerating quickly there after.

Elastomeric Paint Doesn’t Need Multiple Coats

With 2 coats of elastomeric paint over an excellent primer, the cracks will be filled and water will not be able to penetrate. When properly applied a 100% acrylic paint can last 10 years, but an elastomeric coating can last much longer.

When compared to standard house paints the overall cost of this coating is about 50% more.

This is due to increase costs per gallon plus a small spread rate, 50-75 square feet per gallon is typical. If you are paying for labor as well, the cost of application of this coating will be also be higher. A do-it-yourself home owner can apply this product, if you have previous painting experience.

I have applied this coating to T-111 and masonite siding, plus stucco and concrete block, with excellent results. Providing a beautiful finish that will last for many years.

Brush and roller or airless paint sprayer can be used to apply this type of coating. Because of the heavy consistency of this product, a large powerful sprayer is needed. 1 gal per minute output or more is recommended with a tip size of 521 or larger. Choose the spray tip according to the pump manufactures recommendations. Thin this paint with water, if needed, and clean up with a mild soap and water.

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  1. Dave
    Posted February 11, 2015 at 7:42 pm | Permalink

    Elastomeric is absolutely the WORST exterior paint, here is why: when it fails, you are screwed. You cannot coat over it because with age it develops pores and the new paint will be pushed off via water bubbles. It cannot be too thin or too thick, or it will fail. Your only choice is to remove it completely, but it is so tough it resists chemical strippers, it is so flexible it resists pressure washing and sandblasting. The only way to remove it is with scrappers and heat… this is absolutely the most expensive way to remove paint. I am looking at about $15k to prep for a $6k paintjob. So many places touting the virtues of elastomeric paint, yet nobody knows what to do WHEN it fails.

    • Rosalia Gonzalez
      Posted July 23, 2017 at 9:52 pm | Permalink

      Hi Dave, I have considered painting the South wall, which takes a beating with wind driven rain and afternoon sun in the Sacramento area. I have considered exactly your scenario. So, how do you remove elastomeric paint over stucco when it fails? What other alternatives are there to make a stucco wall watertight?

      • Kim Walrath
        Posted September 2, 2017 at 9:16 am | Permalink

        I would put on a new finish coat, then use a concrete sealer or the like. That will need repeating every couple years. Why do you want it to be watertight is my first question. Houses need to breathe a bit. Anyway if you didn’t need watertight, I would just plan on putting on a new finish coat. Add a bit of Acryl60, an acrylic type glue specific for cement products. This will make the material a bit harder to spread (I am a plasterer) but just bite of smaller areas. Acryl60 does really make a very water resistant finish and you can paint in ten years. Good luck

    • Steve Briggs
      Posted October 6, 2017 at 9:37 am | Permalink

      Thanks, won’t use.

  2. Posted February 12, 2015 at 1:37 am | Permalink

    Many brands of elestomeric coatings can be painted over with regular house paint, good quality house paint. We use Sherwin Williams elastomerics without any problems but stucco failures, excessive liming, can cause the coating to fail.

    Yes it is a tough coating but has its limits.

  3. Kozzy420247
    Posted October 2, 2015 at 6:19 am | Permalink

    I’m building my room and am using Greenboard Drywall ( water and mild / mildew resistant ) I want to know if Elastrometric paint can be used on drywall ?? Trying to make as easy as possible to clean and to prevent any moisture from getting out of the room.. Thanks in advance for the help..

    • Posted October 2, 2015 at 1:56 pm | Permalink

      I suppose Elastomeric paint could be used this way but using a specialized product would be better. Drylock primer is designed to block out water and moisture transfer through different materials. To water proof an interior room use an epoxy.

      • Charles S
        Posted April 24, 2017 at 3:12 am | Permalink

        When you say Drylok primer, do you mean Drylok Masonry Waterproofer ,which is a paint but isused as the primer for elastomeric paint? I am considering to first apply Drylok as primer on a painted stucco wall before applying elastomeric paint, to stop water intrusion. Is this a recommended practice? Thanks a lot for the clarification.

        • Posted April 24, 2017 at 12:59 pm | Permalink

          That will work fine. The idea is to add a tough water resistant layer under the elastomeric paint. I never used Drylok as a finish paint but have used it under other paints to stop water intrusion. Combined with the elastomeric coating this should be a tough as it can get.

          • Charles S
            Posted April 25, 2017 at 5:07 am | Permalink

            Thank you so much for the comment!!!

    • Teri
      Posted October 26, 2015 at 4:39 am | Permalink

      Building a room? What kind of room? I’m assuming a bathroom since you are using green board? I would not use elastomeric. It’s expensive, very thick (have you ever tried making a nice cut in line with pudding? lol) and basically over kill. Alkyd paint would be best if you are expecting a lot of moisture that cant leave the room (like a bathroom with no exhaust or windows. It’s a lot harder to clean up if you miss any drops and can smell pretty strong. But finally, if the room is in great shape, has typical ventilation, a regular latex paint with a sheen would be perfectly fine. The more the sheen, the better the resistance and easier it wipes off.

  4. Tom Vondra
    Posted October 12, 2015 at 3:47 pm | Permalink

    Elastomeric coating is commonly applied to split faced block used on store buildings, and is often recoated with house paint. Never a problem. It is much more durable than house paint. I don’t know why it is not sold over the counter for repaint projects, it’s not that expensive.

  5. Kevin F
    Posted April 14, 2017 at 8:06 pm | Permalink

    Whats the titanium dioxide levels of this elastomeric paint? A couple of bids I got emphasize that as the better ingredient to look for. Personally, I don’t know squat about paints. Just do not want to get ripped off. Or get into tripple paint removal costs or something in 5-10 down the road.Since I bought this abode, I have painted it 3 times, about every 5 years, with home depot beher paint. Crud on the comparison scale according to some paint contractors.

    • Posted April 15, 2017 at 1:11 pm | Permalink

      You will need to ask the manufacture as to titanium levels but it is no different that most quality paints. Titanium dioxide makes paints white plus improve coverage and uv stability. It’s in all paints.

      An elastomeric coating is a very good option for your home. Research the brands offered in the bids. Sherwin Williams has some good elastomeric paints.

  6. Karen
    Posted May 4, 2017 at 12:51 pm | Permalink

    I am going to have my house painted using elastomeric paint. Is it important to use the elastomeric patching compound on cracks? Is it ok to do one coat of elastomeric and one coat of regular paint?

    • Posted May 5, 2017 at 1:03 am | Permalink

      The patching compound must be used on large non-structural cracks, typically anything over an 1/16th wide. Tight cracks can be painted over.

      One coat of elastomeric is fine if it is thick enough, follow the manufactures specs for mil-thickness. Typically it is easier to just apply 2 coats, the first back-rolled to fill surface cracks and pores, then a second to get the proper thickness of the dry film.

  7. Claudia Rosencrantz
    Posted May 5, 2017 at 3:41 pm | Permalink

    We live right on the sea front so the house takes a battering with salt and wind and all elements. Is this the best paint for it?

    • Posted May 9, 2017 at 1:10 pm | Permalink

      An elestomeric coating would be a good choice but it has limitations and would require reapplication sooner in your environment. All paints and coatings will degrade faster when exposed to salt spray. Consult with your local paint store for suitability and possible options.

  8. David B
    Posted May 19, 2017 at 10:24 pm | Permalink

    I live in a condo right on the beach. 12 years ago we painted the exterior of our condo with a silicone based elastomeric paint. It has held up well. However, the literature on the paint says 12 yrs is about the time to repaint. I was a chemist with a career in rubber and plastics but have been retired for 20 years. Back in my day… the only thing that would stick to silicone was silicone. Other polymers would not adhere. Therefore, I assume that we should go back on top of the original silicone elastomer paint with more silicone elastomer paint. !!! Do you disagree? Wouldn’t it be a mistake to use an acrylic based paint on top of the silicone based paint?

    • Posted May 19, 2017 at 11:53 pm | Permalink

      Completely agree, go with the manufactures recommendations. Applying an acrylic elastomeric would most likely peel, a real mess.

  9. Lisa
    Posted May 28, 2017 at 12:32 am | Permalink

    We bought a large house in the mountains (direct sun and snow exposure) with wood siding and the paint is chipping all over. We were considering replacing the wood with vinyl siding but are also looking for a cheaper durable alternative. Do you think this product would be an appropriate option?

    • Posted May 29, 2017 at 3:57 am | Permalink

      An elestomeric coating is a good alternative to regular paint and other more expensive coverings in many circumstances. The prep, removal of loose chipped paint, is still very important and if not done correctly will result in premature failure of the coating. If you go down this path make sure the preparation is done correctly and throughly. Contact your local paint store for more details about the prep and application of their elastomeric coating.

      • Lisa
        Posted May 30, 2017 at 6:04 pm | Permalink

        Thanks so much! Appreciate the feedback. 🙂

  10. Ken
    Posted June 1, 2017 at 1:13 pm | Permalink

    I have a section of stucco wall stained by polyurethane insulation. The material was removed but the residue turned brown from uv exposure. How can this be covered?

    • Posted June 3, 2017 at 12:50 pm | Permalink

      The stucco itself will need painting in order to cover this up. Prime with an acrylic stain blocking primer then paint. If the stain wants to come through the primer then you will need to use an oil base primer like Zinsser Cover Stain.

  11. Claude
    Posted June 2, 2017 at 6:01 pm | Permalink

    I am considering an elastomeric coating over my stucco house. It is quite rough with a rock and glass dash. My concern is adhesion to the glass. Any thoughts on its suitability?

    • Posted June 3, 2017 at 12:47 pm | Permalink

      A good quality elastomeric will stick just fine. This coating is very sticky and grips quite well. Double check the recommendations with your local paint store.

  12. Posted June 5, 2017 at 11:04 pm | Permalink

    I live in Colorado. I have only just heard about elastomeric paint. I am wondering if it would be good to use on the wooden window trim on an all brick home. My reason for looking into a GOOD paint is that many of my painted surfaces face south and take almost constant sunlight. My paint color has always been a barnish red to match my brick, which seems to take the heat even more.

    • Posted June 8, 2017 at 1:49 pm | Permalink

      Elastomeric paint is a possibility but a good house paint might hold up better as red and on wood. After prepping and priming the elastomeric can be used as a first coat to fill in small cracks and provide a strong membrane for the finish paint. A really good paint to use is Sherwin Williams Duration or Resilience. If I remember correctly the Sherwin Williams Resilience has a red base, this will not only give better coverage but also better UV resistance.

  13. Sue
    Posted June 19, 2017 at 5:26 pm | Permalink

    Does this paint offer any insulating properties that qualify for Title 24 grants?

    • Posted June 20, 2017 at 1:47 am | Permalink

      Standard elastomeric coating do not offer any insulating properties but this will be different fort each manufacture. Consult with your local paint stores for more information.

  14. chris McMillan
    Posted August 3, 2017 at 8:47 am | Permalink

    Hi, I’m building a Dome Home in Australia constructed of 6×4 timber made into triangular frames, covered in H3 structural ply 17mm thick, ie oil treated. Would drywall as a primer then 2 coats of Elastomeric paint be suitable for this job. Thanks

    • Posted August 4, 2017 at 10:13 pm | Permalink

      You would need to choose a good wood primer before the application of any coating. An elastomeric coating will have some challenges with this type of construction. All joints would need special treatment to accommodate the movement, special sealants/caulkings. Check with your local supplier/manufacture before committing to using a standard elastomeric coating.

      An option is to use an EFIS system with a trowel applied color coat. EFIS is a synthetic stucco system that is applied over foam insulation. The foal would be attached to the dome with glue and screws, a base coat is applied with a fiberglass mesh then the troweled elastomeric color coat is applied.

  15. Mike Goheen
    Posted August 10, 2017 at 2:31 pm | Permalink

    We are having our old painted repurposed brick chimneys replaced as moisture can’t escape and it’s causing various problems. While we went with “white” brick to match our white house it still looks very red next to the painted house. Now we’re considering the elastomeric paint instead of waterproofing the brick. We would most likely paint our entire brick house at the same time with this paint. I see pros and cons on your forum. Do you think this is our best course of option? Already almost 20K into this project and we obviously need it done correctly. Thank you.

    • Posted August 11, 2017 at 1:13 am | Permalink

      An elastomeric coating is specifically designed for brick as well as other masonry surfaces. It is a better choice than regular house paint. With proper prep, cleaning and application of a masonry primer, a high quality elastomeric coating should be problem free and last for many years. Your only alternative is stucco, not cheap.

  16. Neil Dorfman
    Posted August 15, 2017 at 10:40 pm | Permalink

    I live at the Beach. house is stucco and needs to be repainted. Various painters have made proposals. Do you have a preference to the following choices:
    1. PPG Perma crete Pitt-flex, two coats
    2. Loxon XP, two coats
    3. Loxon conditioner primer, 1 coat and then Loxon XP two coats
    4. SW Sherlastic, two coats

    • Posted August 15, 2017 at 10:51 pm | Permalink

      These are all good choices but I would go with #3. Primer then 2 coats of Loxon XP will take a beating and still have good permeability. Plus it can easily be painted over in the future.

  17. Ian Wellman
    Posted August 28, 2017 at 4:23 pm | Permalink

    I have a stucco house that needs repainting. The previous paint was a CHIC Liquid Vinyl coating. I have proposals for the following paints;
    Cloverdale Towerthon Elastomeric – two coats
    Dulux Diamond Exterior – 2 coats
    Dulux Perma-Crete 100% Acrylic High Build – 2 coats

    Which of these coatings do you think is the best given the prior coating. I want a coating that will last 10 years.

    • Posted August 29, 2017 at 1:43 pm | Permalink

      I would go with the Dulux Diamond, 2 coats. This assumes the previous paint isn’t peeling really bad and the stucco is in good overall shape.

      It isn’t a good idea to apply true elastomeric coatings over previous paints, only over themselves. The same goes for the Perma-Crete, although the Perma-Crete patching compounds can be used for stucco repairs if needed.

      • Ian Wellman
        Posted August 29, 2017 at 3:02 pm | Permalink

        Thanks for your advice

  18. Natalia
    Posted September 2, 2017 at 10:09 am | Permalink

    I live in the desert with sunny dry and windy weather conditions. My house has stucco previously painted with elastomeric and now needs to be repainted. Various painters have made proposals. Should I use acrylic or elastomeric paint on top of another elastomeric?

    • Posted September 3, 2017 at 1:59 pm | Permalink

      You can go either way. If the existing elestomeric coating is in good shape, just faded, then regular good paint is fine. In most cases priming isn’t needed, just clean and paint.

  19. Jim
    Posted September 11, 2017 at 9:46 pm | Permalink

    Hey All,

    Fellow HOA Board Member patched heavily textured stucco with standard (non-textured) patch material and then applied one coat of elastomeric paint. Repair areas really show. Can we put a textured patching material on top of the elastomeric first coat and then a second coat? Does it need to be an elastomeric patching compound? If not, any ideas? Also, if permitted please recommend specific brand of patching compound!

    • Posted September 12, 2017 at 12:57 am | Permalink

      You will need to use an acrylic stucco color coat or patching compound. The local Sherwin Williams sells tintable Total Wall color coats in a couple different textures. This might be a good alternative for you. Check you local paint stores for available supplies, if not there then call around for a stucco supplier.

      Good brands I have used are Total Wall, STO and La Habra. They are all have good products that can be used for this purpose.

      • Roboman
        Posted November 1, 2017 at 10:54 pm | Permalink

        I just had Total Wall put on my new home, and it already has some hairline cracks. I tried to paint over it using Sherlastic in the patio area, and it takes 3 or 4 coats to cover. The wall just sucks up the paint. It’s even worse when painting Total Wall with exterior Super Paint. I was told I should use Blocker Filler Paint first and then apply the Sherlastic paint.

        Any thoughts on this would be much appreciated. Painting Total Wall with Super paint requires several coats and it still doesn’t seal it very well. The paint is just soaked up. I tried calling the Total Wall rep, but no calls back.



        • Roboman
          Posted November 2, 2017 at 12:16 pm | Permalink

          One more question. Since I already put on two coats of Sherlastic can I paint over it with Preprite pro block filler paint from Sherwin Williams and then use the two more coats of Sherlastic? This is what the painter wants to do now since the Total Wall just sucks up the Sherlastic paint like a sponge at $40.00 a gallon. The Preprite is only around $10.00 a gallon.

          • Posted November 2, 2017 at 1:17 pm | Permalink

            Yes, this is fine. By now the Sherlastic is more a primer than a finish coating anyway. It will take a lot of Preprite to seal up the Total Wall. 2 coats for sure then the Sherlastic.

        • Posted November 2, 2017 at 1:14 pm | Permalink

          As you found out priming is needed. Any acrylic masonry primer would work, including block fill primer. Block filler is rather thick, similar to the elastomeric, so some thinning might be needed for you to spray or roll. If thinned too much 2 or coats will be needed.

          The Sherlastic is a way better coating than Super Paint. Keep using the Sherlastic but primer first.

          • Roboman
            Posted November 4, 2017 at 1:09 pm | Permalink

            Thanks for the info and the painter is starting today. Total wall is very porous and really sucks up the paint. My builder used the SW Journeyman product. Shouldn’t the Total Wall have been sealed better or is this just the way it is with this product? It’s going to cost me a bundle to prime the Total Wall before painting because it sucks up the paint. I don’t get why the builder used it without sealing it. Is this the correct why to apply Total Wall? What would have been a better way to apply Total Wall so it is sealed better? Is priming it the only way? I was told that the builder could have used a Total Wall that has elastomeric paint mixed in with the Total Wall. Do you know of such a product?

            Thanks for your help. I have a brand new home, with Total Wall as a finish coat, that has hairline cracks that soaks up paint like a sponge. I sure don’t get why the builder went this route.

            Thanks again and I’m waiting on the painter ….

          • Posted November 4, 2017 at 5:51 pm | Permalink

            This is the way these products are. There are different kinds or grades of acrylic stucco color coats, some have more stretch or sealing powers. Total Wall has 3 or 4 different types. Sounds like a cheaper grade was used.

            Sometimes the stucco contractor will seal the base coat or underlying stucco with a special primer before applying the acrylic color coat. Probably wasn’t done in your case. Might explain why it is sucking up so much paint.

            The cracks might have happened when the Total Wall was drying. If it dries too fast the top portion will dry before the underlying portion does, the top is fixed in place as the underlying coat shrinks as it dries. This causes “spider web” style of cracking.

            An alternative to using straight masonry primer is to flood the surface with Seal Crete (100% acrylic) to seal it up. Seal Crete is a thin clear liquid that will penetrate and seal up the pores.

  20. DR
    Posted September 28, 2017 at 4:21 pm | Permalink

    I have a now 40 year old shed with ¼ inch redwood plywood exterior siding with battens covering the seams and the in between areas just for effect. It was originally painted with a full body stain. On the South facing side some small narrow strips of the surface exterior plies began pealing up. This happened during the first or second year so I removed the pealing part and repainted the complete building with another heavy coat of the full bodied stain. Probably no surprise, the same thing reoccurred again within a year or so. At that point, about 30+ years ago I thought I will just remove and residing the building with stucco. Procrastination set in and now 30+ years later I am thinking Stucco may be a stretch of my physical ability at this point as the years have passed. The wood seems to be stable now but the bottom portions of the redwood siding now have several 1/16 deep, maybe 1/8 wide, groves running vertically, eroded in the wood. They are just in the bottom 1 ½ to 2 foot area on the South wall side only. That would be the main Sun and rain main impact area.

    As I understand, the manufacturing of redwood plywood siding was discontinue in 1982. The rest of the wood is checkered up and has pealing stain which would certainly need to be cleaned up. Do you think an elastomeric coating would be a workable long term solution, thinking for the grooved area I described? Other suggestions or prep ideas would be welcomed? Thanks

    • Posted September 29, 2017 at 1:59 pm | Permalink

      The right elastomeric coating will be a good choice for your shed. Not all elastomerics are the same, make sure it’s rated for wood surfaces (some are masonry only). Also, make sure you have good weather. Thick coatings need warm temperatures and dry conditions to dry and cure properly, over 50 degree days with over 40 at night for a few days is needed.

      Prep; A good sanding to remove all loose stain is needed. If you wind up with a lot of raw wood after sanding then 2 coats of wood primer would be a good idea, thin the first coat for better penetration into the wood. An oil base wood primer is preferred but if not available to you then any good primer will do. Caulk in all large cracks, over hairline, with a very good stretchy paintable caulking.

      After the prep 2 coats of the elastomeric should be applied. Allow to dry overnight before recoating.

      • DR
        Posted September 29, 2017 at 10:45 pm | Permalink

        Thanks for the quick reply
        I certainly appreciate your help and your detailed instructions.
        Thanks again

  21. Canuck
    Posted October 24, 2017 at 7:31 am | Permalink

    I have a portion of my home that is covered with a product called Granix. It’s a fiberglass reinforced board with a rough aggregate finish. The panel joints are caulked and need to be redone. I live in Northern CANADA where we get extreme cold in the winter and warm humid summers. I’m looking for a good waterproof product that would cover the Granix and give me a nice durable finish.

    • Posted October 26, 2017 at 1:18 pm | Permalink

      A god quality exterior house paint will work well. The key to problem free longevity is proper prep and not scrimping on the paint. You will need to clean and prime first then caulk in the joints. Check out your local paint store for a suitable primer.

  22. Skip Carroll
    Posted October 25, 2017 at 9:18 am | Permalink

    I have an old 1940’s house with stucco and painted brick exterior. Unfortunately, it’s located on the adobe clay soil of the San Joaquin Valley, which continually expands and contracts, The painted brick exterior is poor condition, and I know I’ll have some repointing of the mortar joints to deal with, as well as removing some flaking paint. Is elastomeric still my best option?

    • Posted October 26, 2017 at 1:08 pm | Permalink

      An elastomeric coating is a good option in your situation. A quality elastomeric properly applied can stretch or contract with your home, eliminating many problems.

  23. Francis
    Posted October 28, 2017 at 4:08 am | Permalink

    Has anyone tried to remove elastomeric paint on glass? I need help.thanks!

    • Posted October 28, 2017 at 1:11 pm | Permalink

      Tough to do depending on thickness. Use a fresh sharp flat razor blade and glass cleaner, the cleaner acts as a lubricant. If scraping won’t work then use alcohol to soften and a razor to remove.

  24. Colleen
    Posted November 16, 2017 at 3:39 pm | Permalink

    Wow you are an amazing resource, thank you!

    I have an exterior stucco wall running straight to our concrete footer, which will soon be filled in with dirt with grass and sprinklers up to it.

    The bottom 10” of course had failing stucco, which was knocked off, a waterproofing liquid was used just in the repair area and then I patched using a rapid set one pass material (rapid set advised it because of our very smooth stucco finish).

    I already bought a gallon of elastomeric paint and was planning to only paint my repair area.

    Assuming the elastomeric would eventually fail because of all these factors, should I proceed with that plan?

    Also, on my block wall, it is covered in only 1 coat of stucco, so it is failing and doesn’t look great…you can see the blocks, etc. I need to do a repair where the wall also meets the grass. I’m planning to use rapid set stucco patch. I’d like the wall to look better and was thinking of using the elastomeric paint over the whole wall. I’m afraid though of the horror stories of peeling, chipping… I don’t want to end up worse off than I already am.

    Maybe plan to add a bonding adhesive and add another layer of stucco with color coat? But then I’m worried about the lower parts that meet the landscaping. After new stucco add a silicone water sealer? It still let’s water escape through vapors.

    Sorry so long, many many thanks!

    • Posted November 17, 2017 at 12:56 am | Permalink

      With the stucco getting wet often from the sprinklers I wouldn’t use an elastomeric coating. Apply a color coat, allow to dry well (min. 4 weeks to cure), then apply 2 generous coats clear Seal-Krete. This will have to be reapplied every couple years but will be easier to maintain.

      When reapplying Seal-Krete use a pressure washer and about 1200-1500 psi to remove any loose sealer, allow to dry well then reapply a heavy flood coat.

  25. deborah
    Posted November 18, 2017 at 8:54 pm | Permalink

    Can epoxy finish exterior products be used over elastomeric?

    • Posted November 30, 2017 at 2:36 am | Permalink

      No, these are not compatible. Elastomerics are a little soft and flexable while the epoxy products are hard and brittle. Problems over time.

  26. June
    Posted November 21, 2017 at 10:58 pm | Permalink

    Painting my small thick textured stucco house. Found ppg perma crete pitt flex elastomeric for 100 for 5 gal. Guy at hardware store said it was a good price.

    • Posted November 30, 2017 at 2:35 am | Permalink

      That is a good price. And it’s a good product.

  27. dörthe
    Posted December 9, 2017 at 9:09 pm | Permalink


    I have a barn with an area where 2 pressure treated plywood panels are exposed to shady humidity and rain. I would like to maximize their durability and wondered if an elastomeric paint would be a longerterm option/solution.

    • Posted December 11, 2017 at 3:26 am | Permalink

      An elastomeric coating will be fine once the plywood is properly primed. Make sure to use an oil base wood primer, if available, and apply 2 coats of the elastomeric paint for maximum protection.

  28. Posted December 15, 2017 at 2:23 am | Permalink

    I have a stucco home that was built in 1937. It is been painted multiple times most recently I think with several coats of latex paint. My painter recently came and power washed the home. He claims there are many micro-cracks now visible and wants to do one layer of elastomeric paint covered with 2 coats of high-quality Sherwin Williams latex paint.

    I have several questions:

    1) Will the elastomeric paint adhere to the existing power washed surface?

    2) Will the new latex paint adhere to the elastomeric paint?

    3) I thought I had read that elastomeric paint does not breathe well. Is there any concern about this?

    4) is the earlier comment that elastomeric paint is incredibly hard to remove any cause for concern?

    Thank you

    • Posted December 18, 2017 at 2:43 pm | Permalink
      1. Your home should be primed before applying the elastomeric coating. This will make sure it sticks without any future problems.
      2. Yes, a high quality “latex” paint with adhere to the elastomeric coating. Sherwin Williams Super Paint or Duration would be good choices.
      3. Elastomeric coatings breath very well. The “breathability” is well known and established through standardized testing. High quality elastomeric coatings breath better than modern acrylic house paints.
      4. This shouldn’t be a concern as a coat or 2 of elastomeric paint can be a great foundation for future paint jobs. So, you really don’t want it coming off and causing peeling problems as with normal house paints.

      Sounds like your painter wants to establish a good foundation for both your current paint job as well as future paint jobs as well.

  29. Pat
    Posted January 24, 2018 at 4:31 am | Permalink

    Thanks for the information that you have provided. I am having my house painted. We bought a house and found that its windows leaked. in replacing the leaky windows we found that the house wrap under the stucco weren’t layered properly. So we are having all seams sealed with caulking and our painter is offering to prime with Kelly Moore flat paint, and a Benjamin Moore elastomeric paint. He states that with both coats rolled on rather than sprayed he will be able to build enough thickness to not require two coats, is this correct?


    • Posted January 24, 2018 at 2:49 pm | Permalink

      Yes, it is possible to apply very thick coats with just a roller. It is difficult to achieve with a roller verses a sprayer. After he applies the final coat to a wall take a look and make sure you like the result, 1 heavy coat of paint can have a less desired look when compared to 2 coats.

  30. Michael Schaefer
    Posted January 31, 2018 at 8:54 pm | Permalink

    Hi, I would like to know if elastomeric paint would work on metal shipping containers. I have many gallons of elastomeric paint that I picked up for almost nothing, and 3 containers that I would like to paint to be the same color. The existing paint is in fair shape, just faded. What prep so I need, primer?

    • Posted February 3, 2018 at 2:54 pm | Permalink

      It should work fine. You will need to apply a primer first then spray on the elastomeric coating.

      • Wash (power washer is best). Use an injectable house wash. This will remove dirt and grease that might be on the containers.
      • Scrape or sand to remove loose paint, if there is any.
      • Seal any joints or open cracks. Use a polyurethane sealant.
      • Apply a good primer. A universal acrylic should do the trick. Needs a good bond to the metal and existing paint.

      That’s it. Once prepped the elastomeric can be applied. Recommend spraying for the best look and even coverage.

  31. Kelly Holt
    Posted February 3, 2018 at 10:54 pm | Permalink

    I’m planning an exterior living wall which will be held away from the wall about 3″. I figured it would be a good idea to waterproof the wall as it will be sprayed often when watering and have a warm humid environment in the space between the house and the plant fixture. Should a good quality exterior paint be enough or would elastomeric paint be advisable? I believe I have T111 siding.

    • Posted February 6, 2018 at 1:56 pm | Permalink

      A good exterior paint will work well. Use a paint with a good sheen, semi-gloss, behind the plant wall for some added protection. Shiny paints shed water better and faster than satin or flat.

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